A New York Restaurant, a Texas Farm and Their Plant-Based Brawl

2 months ago 28

Food|A New York Restaurant, a Texas Farm and Their Plant-Based Brawl

https://www.nytimes.com/2025/02/13/dining/dirt-candy-trademark-dispute.html

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They shared the same name, Dirt Candy, and a devotion to healthy food. But a trademark dispute turned into an urban-rural standoff.

A man with gray hair and a beard wearing a tan poncho stands in a field with his arm around a woman with long blond hair in a green sweater. An image next to it shows a woman with black hair in a pink sweater and gray apron standing against a wall with her arms crossed.
Mitch and Tracy Cutler, left, helped their son create a farm on the family compound in Wimberley, Texas. They used the same name, Dirt Candy, that the chef Amanda Cohen had trademarked for her New York City restaurant.Credit...Left: Ariana Gomez for The New York Times. Right: Janice Chung for The New York Times.

Kim Severson

Feb. 13, 2025, 5:02 a.m. ET

The letter from the New York City lawyer came in April. Sky Cutler, 36, was admiring his young tomato plants and preparing to harvest the spring lettuce he grew in a pocket of rich soil here in the Texas Hill Country.

He and his family had named it Dirt Candy Farm. It’s only two and a half acres, but he could grow enough to do a good business at the local farmers’ markets. That’s something, considering that only a few years earlier he was running a falafel stand in Bali to support his surfing habit.

As soon as he tore open the envelope, he knew it was trouble. He walked it over to his father, Mitch Cutler, 62, a former Silicon Valley restaurateur who had sold his business and home and, at the height of the pandemic, bought 51 acres in Texas to build his family a self-sustaining spiritual refuge. The farm was a big part of it.

“It was moving from a transactional life to a more authentic life,” Mitch Cutler said. “It was a movement away from being agents of the matrix.”

Image

Sky Cutler carved a two-and-a-half-acre farm out of a pocket of rich soil in the rocky Texas Hill Country.Credit...Ariana Gomez for The New York Times

The letter was from a lawyer hired by the chef Amanda Cohen, who runs a 60-seat vegetarian restaurant on the Lower East Side of Manhattan where a five-course meal — which recently featured Korean rice cakes in smoky kale broth, and kabocha squash flan topped with hot coffee and popcorn — costs $110.


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