How Joan Didion Did Thanksgiving

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The author’s newly unveiled papers reveal the meticulous planning and devotion to cooking that went into her big holiday meals.

Joan Didion stands in her book-lined living room, surrounded by guests.
Joan Didion, center, hosting Thanksgiving in 1992. From left, the New York Review of Books editor Robert Silvers, the publisher Sonny Mehta, the novelist Susanna Moore and the record producer Earl McGrath.Credit...Camilla and Earl McGrath Foundation

Patrick Farrell

Nov. 18, 2025Updated 3:04 p.m. ET

Across six decades as a writer and cultural barometer, Joan Didion persuaded her public to face all kinds of things they might rather not: the crumbling of social norms, the failures of democracy. Boredom. Aging. Mortality.

Even Thanksgiving.

“It has always seemed like such an awful holiday,” a friend wrote her after one dinner, “but you made it something quite wonderful.”

Yes, Joan Didion, the cool-eyed minimalist who savored hard truths and looked as if she subsisted on crudités and aperçus, embraced the great American feast day of food and sentiment. And she staged it the same way she conjured her essays, novels, screenplays and memoirs, with an almost military mustering of planning and ambition.

Video

Joan Didion, shown here in the film “The Center Will Not Hold,” wrote about discovering “that a kitchen could be a ritual, a meditation, a room and a time of my own.”CreditCredit...Video by Griffin Dunne

She hosted Thanksgiving buffets for as many as 75 guests, a who’s who of notables from the shiny Venn diagram she moved in: literary circles (Philip Roth, Edna O’Brien), the New York media (Jimmy Breslin, Jann Wenner), Hollywood (Liam Neeson, Claire Bloom) and the intersection of all three (Nora Ephron). Years before Friendsgiving came along, she filled her Manhattan apartment with cronies and colleagues, including Thanksgiving skeptics like the writer Calvin Trillin, who has long campaigned to replace the turkey with spaghetti carbonara.

She typed up dozens of menus and guest lists, noting who declined, who arrived at what time, how many ate or did not, and how much food was left over. She drafted instructions for a few hired helpers — and herself — detailing the timing and placement of each course, which forks to use and which plates couldn’t go in the dishwasher.


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